CJ and I check out of the B&B in the morning as we are heading back to Dublin today. The weather is much clearer today, so we do a quick drive to a viewpoint on Valentia Island where we can see the Skellig Islands in the distance. Along the way we pass by Telegraph Field, the terminus of the first successful transatlantic telegraph cable under the ocean that was completed in 1858 allowing messages to be sent from Valentia Harbor in Ireland to Trinity Bay in Newfoundland, Canada.
Up to this point, our driving routes in County Kerry have mostly followed the coastline. For our return trip, CJ suggests taking a route through the mountains up to Kilarney National Park where we first started our “Ring of Kerry” experience. Ireland roads are classified by the following four letter distinctions: “M” motorways (similar to U.S. interstates), “N” national roads (similar to U.S. highways), “R” regional roads (similar to U.S. county roads), and “L” local roads (country roads that can be quite rustic). Not soon after turning off the main “N” road along the coast, the “R” road narrows to a single lane, which when meeting a car coming from the opposite direction requires one of the drivers to careen off to the side of the road to allow the other to pass. The roads are well maintained, there isn’t much traffic, and I take it very slowly around the endless blind curves. It is gorgeous scenery and well worth the challenging drive.
After Kilarney National Park, we drive through the town of Kilarney in heavy traffic due to all the people on holiday. Our route back to Dublin takes us through Limerick, where we stop for a visit with an older parish priest, let’s call him J, who is a close friend of CJ’s. J lives in a parsonage house behind the church, where we sit down at a formally set dining table to a delightful late lunch he has prepared. Afterwards we take a short stroll through Limerick, passing by St. John’s Castle and over the River Shannon, to a riverfront pub for a couple of pints and more conversation. Time goes by quickly with the good company. After walking back, J insists on serving tea and coffee before we hit the road.
From Limerick, the driving is much easier on the M50 split two-lane highway. We get into Dublin around 8:30pm, return the rental car to the hotel where we picked it up, then walk back towards Temple Bar where we stop to have a late dinner at a Japanese restaurant not far from Spranger’s Yard. What a trip! It feels like we’ve been gone much longer than just a few days.
Maps
Map of all our “Ring of Kerry” routes during the trip
Until next time….
